Once you get into it, you discover the truth: great canned tuna holds just as much eating excitement as any other rare, high-end specialty product. Just because it isn’t on every foodie’s hoo-hah list–the list that normally includes caviar, foie gras, great cheese, great olive oil, etc.–sure as heck doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be on those lists. Great canned tuna is, without question, a great eating experience–something that James Beard understood many decades ago.