The best whole grilled fish I ever had? Come on. Could it be reasonable to make such a judgment? After the piscatory onslaught of my life…from the Cyclades, to Provence, to Goa, to the tiny islands off of Malaysia, to Native American planked salmon in Oregon? To freakin’ opakapaka right out of the water grilled on the coast of Kauai? And yet, one day, about two years ago…