One of the rising cult wines in the U.S. is dry Lambrusco–adored with the local food in the highly gastronomic area of Modena, almost completely ignored in the U.S. Why? Because 40 years ago a sweet version became famous in the U.S.—chill a Cella!–and that was lights out for the reputation of the great dry stuff. But some of us are fighting back!
David’s Wine of the Week: Lambrusco Grasparrosso di Castelvetro, Monovitigno, Fattoria Moretto ($26)
Alrighty then…just what is it about this pie that places it right up there on every short list of The Things That Define America? Apples are not indigenous; we have knowledge of their cultivation in Egypt going back 4000 years. The pie itself is not indigenous; English cooks were bakin’ it long before the Pilgrims landed here. But the Pilgrims did bring the first apple seeds to North America…and, almost 400 years later, America is the world’s largest producer of apples.
No, no, I’m not talking about the depiction of food on film…THAT has been around for a long while! But in 2007 two enterprising food-and media guys–George Motz and Seth Unger–created something wholly new in the world of food and film. They began a film festival, devoted solely to films about food–all kinds of food films, some short, some long, some with a narrative, some total documentary-like in style, some hybrids.
I always worry about Rhônes and Burgundies from 2009. They get good vintage-chart ratings, but “good” ain’t my experience. This was a warm vintage, yielding wines uncharacteristically strong. So it was a happy surprise when I came upon this exciting red wine from the dreaded ’09 vintage. Medium garnet in the glass, a little soupy-looking.
Bistec Encebollado, I’ve been told, is the “Puerto Rican national dish;” you could surmise this from its presence on the menu of every restaurant near my house in New York that’s run by Puerto Rican families. It is comfort food at its finest: steak and onions in gravy, with a Latino spin or two.
About David Rosengarten
Journalist, television personality, and cookbook author, David Rosengarten has covered great food products, restaurants, wines, gastronomic travel destinations, and related subjects for over 25 years...
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