DO NOT BE SHOCKED by the downscale nature of the ingredients called for here. “Dave,” I can hear you saying…”You’re asking me to sprinkle garlic powder and onion powder on a roast beef?” Yes I am. Yes I definitely am. This is the kind of thing that upscale home chefs usually avoid–therefore depriving themselves of a shot at something recognizably “street”!
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I’ve never been crazy about Indian fish kababs; they usually seem dried out, and the Indian spicing usually seems to overwhelm the subtle flavors of the fish. That all changed when I got to Hyderabad–where a plate of moist, grilled fish chunks and perfectly chosen Indian spices did a remarkable pas de deux.
One of the great recent developments in Mexican restaurants in the U.S. is the rise of regional consciousness. These days, there are restaurants dedicated to the food of, say, Oaxaca, or Jalisco, or Veracruz.
A cobbler, classically, is fruit cooked in a dish with a biscuit-y dough on top (the dough is dropped on in pieces, or it makes a layer across the top). The following variation comes from a friend in North Carolina who swears that in his neck of the woods, the batter-like topping below is quite common. Common or not…it’s a perfect foil for the fruit.
The paradise of great, simple Italian-American food in U.S. restaurants was lost when the restaurants became ristoranti, and when garlic bread became bruschetta (pronounced brew-SKET-ta.) All right, I’ve way overstated the case.
About David Rosengarten
Journalist, television personality, and cookbook author, David Rosengarten has covered great food products, restaurants, wines, gastronomic travel destinations, and related subjects for over 25 years...
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