DO NOT BE SHOCKED by the downscale nature of the ingredients called for here. “Dave,” I can hear you saying…”You’re asking me to sprinkle garlic powder and onion powder on a roast beef?” Yes I am. Yes I definitely am. This is the kind of thing that upscale home chefs usually avoid–therefore depriving themselves of a shot at something recognizably “street”!
Ponder, and ye shall find.
I’ve been doing a lot of pondering lately, about a tough culinary conundrum: what kind of chef in 2013 truly satisfies? For it seems to me that, in our groundbreakingly chef-crazed era, the thumbprint of the chef is the one thing slipping away in our restaurants.
I’ve never been crazy about Indian fish kababs; they usually seem dried out, and the Indian spicing usually seems to overwhelm the subtle flavors of the fish. That all changed when I got to Hyderabad–where a plate of moist, grilled fish chunks and perfectly chosen Indian spices did a remarkable pas de deux.
It is my most thrilling table grape discovery in decades!!!
“Table grapes?” you might be asking. “I thought you liked Riesling, and Pinot Noir, and Xinomavro…the wine grapes, all those grapes destined for wine!”
Heck yes. I love them things, and the juice that happens when they’re squozed.
But I also love grapes that are grown to simply sit on your table, and be consumed by you, sphere by tingly sphere. Especially at this time of year.
One of the great recent developments in Mexican restaurants in the U.S. is the rise of regional consciousness. These days, there are restaurants dedicated to the food of, say, Oaxaca, or Jalisco, or Veracruz.
About David Rosengarten
Journalist, television personality, and cookbook author, David Rosengarten has covered great food products, restaurants, wines, gastronomic travel destinations, and related subjects for over 25 years...
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