WINE FRIDAY: David’s Wine of the Week

2013 Durigutti Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($12)

I wanna love Malbec. I’ve been to many a cow-grilling in Mendoza, Argentina, and have thrown many, many gallons of Malbec over the gums. I’m happy enough when I’m there, but—despite the great popularity of this sturdy varietal among many of mah Fellow Amuricans—it doesn’t work that well for me on these shores. Why? The usual. It is Big, Fat Red Wine, with lots of alcohol, usually lots of tannin, sometimes lots of tactile oak. Occasionally, however, a Malbec comes along that’s not painful to drink…and this is it!

Read full story

“Hungarian” Beef Goulash with Sauerkraut

Gulyas in Hungary and goulash in the U.S. are two very different kettles of meat. The Hungarian version was originally a soup; the American version is almost always a stew. Cooks of Hungarian heritage in Ohio like to serve their goulash alongside sauerkraut—a fabulous blend of flavors, with the sauerkraut cutting the richness of the stew. The following “Hungarian” goulash is the finest I’ve tasted in the U.S.

Read full story

Wine For The Weekend

Once upon a time, in old Tuscany, there was a graceful kind of wine known as “Chianti.” The Tuscans loved it, and drank a ton of it with their marvelously simple food. Then the world discovered it. Then the world changed its taste, moving blindly towards darker, richer, more tannic, more alcoholic, less food-friendly red wines. Then the Tuscans changed Chianti. Badda-boom. And thus ended the tradition of lovely, light, drink-any-time, graceful Chianti. For the most part.

Read full story

Fresh-Picked Chesapeake Crab Salad with Homemade Crabhouse Spices, Corn Nuts, Virginia Chile Extraction, and Buttermilk Dressing

We’re posting today an exciting new recipe that I developed for a dinner I cooked in October, at The James Beard House in NYC! The dinner was an East-West oyster shuck-off, but Ken Norris of Portand, Oregon and I created some non-oyster courses, also using East or West Coast seafood. My favorite contribution was this crab salad, the crab meticulously picked out of fresh-coked crabs. It was a BIG JOB for 80 diners….but for your family it should be much more manageable. And do go to the trouble of creating the House-Made Crabhouse Spice…it has a delicious kick!

Read full story

Rosengarten on Forbes: Hello Again, Madrid—Finding What’s New in What’s Old

One can hardly descend on a European capital today that’s more dedicated to “what’s new” than Madrid. This is Spain, padre…the world capital of molecular cuisine, of calcium chloride olives, of ice balls that implode and vanish in your mouth. Yes, there is no El Bulli in Spain at the moment…but every Spanish kid in a white jacket still wants to be Ferran Adrià.

Read full story